IF there’s one man you can look to to inject some summer into you winter, it’s Matthew Williamson.
“It was really about using light and energy to bring something else to monochrome and grey and black,” said the designer backstage, post a finale snowstorm of confetti, of his antidote to the colder months. “I was inspired by the Northern lights and the toxic colours like those acid greens, that shaft of metallic colour,” he went on – something that was captured through holographic sequins on gowns and his signature intricate embroidery and embellishment, which came in teal and turquoise, yellow and magenta.
But this time round he piled on the texture – layers in winter, after all, provide warmth – so it wasn’t just decoration, it was sequins and fringing and knit and fur.
There were lots of easy daywear combinations of pleated skirts and lace jumpers – the former inspired by the costumes of Nordic natives. And there was a move to looser trapeze shapes – tunics over trousers.
“The idea was to move the silhouette on, to look loose, move away from form-fitted and to be relaxed,” he said. Spring/summer 2013 had been the big birthday collection (15 years), so perhaps this was him really letting his hair down and having something of a sartorial after-party. There were certainly plenty of column gowns and bedazzling numbers to fulfil that occasion – as there were bright chevron coats to make sure that there’s cheer in your winter wardrobe next season whatever the weather and wherever you are.
It was hot and cold all at the same time. “That’s a great analogy,” agreed the designer. Thanks very much Mr Williamson.
Gently via Vogue.co.uk